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The New New Place
Note:
Route descriptions complements of Jason Chen and Walt Wehner.
Crag Descriptions: The "New New Place" is a 60 foot,
southeast facing, basalt cliff with approximately 20 traditional routes
and topropes. Many excellent and classic lines, mostly cracks, are
found here. Many are best toproped. This is a good crag at
which to escape the crowds at the Overlook or the Playground.
Sport route bolting is not permitted here, by community
agreement.
Getting There:
To get to the "New New Place," park at the cul-de-sac at the
east end of Kimberly. Walk straight out, but veer left (east). The main
climbing area is a short walk from the cul-de-sac. The descent is a down climb
at the south end of the main climbing area.
Crag location map.
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Photos with the routes delineated (suitable
for enhancing this guide) are requested. Please contact
Jan Studebaker to volunteer. |
The
New New Place (routes: listed from left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
1. ? 5.10d * Pro: TR
A slightly overhung crack/face route as you come down the approach
gully.
Short, but actually pretty good.
2. ? 5.11a * Pro: TR
6 feet right of #1. Up the seam/face. Another very short route.
3. ? 5.10a ** Pro: to 1.5 inches
Up the crack left of the Fever Pitch.
4. Fever Pitch 5.12a ** Pro: TR
Go straight up the face between #3 and #5. One hard move.
5. ? 5.9 ** Pro: TR
Up the crack right of Fever Pitch.
6. ? 5.11a * Pro: TR
A very strange route. Up the left-trending crack left of #7, then back
right onto a ledge and up the dihedral above.
7. Clockwork 5.11c/d *** Pro: TR
Up the face/arete left of #8. A very sustained, fun route.
8. ? 5.10d/11a ** Pro: TR
Start just right of #7, then up the overhung dihedral that (from below)
appears to be heinously blank.
9. ? 5.10c ** Pro: TR
Starts up the handcrack just right of #8, then up and righwards.
10. ? 5.11c *** Pro: TR
Shares the first 10 feet of #11, then fires leftwards up the obvious
overhung prow and to the top on heinous slopers.
11. Batshit 5.10b *** Pro: to 3.5 inches
Climb the weird dihedral for 20 feet, then jam the hands/offwidth crack.
12. Open Book 5.12a ***** Pro: TR
Up the obvious, thin dihedral, then left and up a fairly hard bulge,
back
right and up the face to the top. An ultra-classic route.
13. ? 5.11a ** Pro: TR
Climb the thin face and trend right to finish the same as Phonebooth.
Climbing the face/arete between this route and Open Book is a fun 12b.
It's
also possible to finish on the left face, instead of the crack.
14. Phonebooth 5.10a *** Pro: to 2 inches
Climb the narrow slot/dihedral and straight up the cracks to the top.
15. Easy Start 5.9 ** Pro: to 2 inches
Up the layback flake 10 feet right of Phonebooth's start, then rejoin it
at
mid-height.
16. ? 5.8+ ** Pro: to 3 inches
Go up a block on jugs, then straight up easy crack that get wider and
wider.
17. Twin Cracks 5.9 ** Pro: to 2.5 inches
Climb the twin fingercracks 10 feet right of the Podium, then trend left
and up, or go straight up overhung blocks and cracks.
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