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White Rock Weather Scheduled Community Top Roping Sessions Climbing Fundamentals - Online |
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The "New New Place" is a 60 foot, southeast facing, basalt cliff with approximately 20 traditional routes and topropes. Many excellent and classic lines, mostly cracks, are found here. Many are best toproped. This is a good crag at which to escape the crowds at the Overlook or the Playground. Click here for a route guide. Sport route bolting is not permitted here, by community agreement. To get to the "New New Place," park at the cul-de-sac at the east end of Kimberly. Walk straight out, but veer left (east). The main climbing area is a short walk from the cul-de-sac. The descent is a down climb at the south end of the main climbing area. Click here for a street map. Thursday, October 9, The Playground The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff with over 40 traditional routes and topropes. This area is White Rock's most popular toproping area. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. In addition, the entire base of the cliff can be traversed as a boulder problem. Many people come here just for the excellent bouldering. Be warned, however, that this bouldering is very dissimilar from what most boulderers would enjoy, and has as much to do with memorizing moves as strength. Toproping is usually fairly easy, bring a rack and long slings to tie off trees. Most toprope sets are on a shelf 10' below the rim. Click here for a route guide. Sport route bolting is not permitted here, by community agreement. To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover Blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow Lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the "Overlook", and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground. Click here for a street map.
Tuesday, October 14, The "Y" The "Y" is a 45 foot basalt canyon with about 35 traditional and toprope routes. The "Y" is a popular toproping area for locals. It is not on the canyon rim as are the other climbs on this page. Due to the narrow canyon, it's not climbable in the winter. There are routes on both sides of the canyon - the north side (which faces south) has most of them. Click here for a route guide. Sport route bolting is not permitted here, by community agreement. The "Y" is just east of the intersection of NM 502 and NM 4. The unobvious parking area is just past the first guard rail on the south side of NM 502. Park along the road (beside the fence), and walk between the guard rail and the fence to the cliff's edge. The descent is at the west end of the cliffs. Click here for a street map. Thursday, October 16, The Overlook The "Overlook" is a 65 foot (mostly south-facing) basalt cliff with over 65 sport and traditional routes. This area is White Rock's premier sport climbing and toproping crag (routes on the Overlook's popular south side have had toproping bolts installed that can be reached from the rim). The area is climbable year-round, due to the varied aspect of the cliff. Most people come to the Overlook to sport climb; though many worthy cracks exist, they are not on par with those of many other crags in the vicinity. Click here for the Samet/Jett route guide, or click here for the Chen/Wehner route guide. To get to the "Overlook," turn off NM 4 onto Rover, make an immediate left onto Meadow Lane. Turn at the sign on Meadow Lane that announces "Overlook Park." Follow this road due east until you get to its end. Park here, and walk straight out. Just before you get to the Rio Grande "Overlook", turn left (north), and walk to the end of a narrow ridge of rock. Climb down to the next level, which is the top rope anchor level. Due north is the sport climbing area, and due east is the more traditional (crack and bolted) top roping area. The Overlook top ropes are all set with bolts. It is not always obvious that people are below...be careful! Get to the cliff base by following a distinct trail on the south end of the main cliff. Click here for a street map.
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