Top Roping

The "Overlook" is a long 65' high "L" shaped basalt cliff with over 65 sport and traditional routes. This area is White Rock's premier sport climbing and toproping crag (routes on the Overlook's popular south side have had toproping bolts installed that can be reached from the rim). The area is climbable year-round, due to the varied aspect of the cliff. Most people come to the Overlook to sport climb; though many worthy cracks exist, but they are not on par with those of many other crags in the vicinity. Click here for the Lower Buttress routes, here for the North/West side routes, and here for the South/East side routes; a large topo is here for the South/East side.

To get to the "Overlook," turn off NM 4 onto Rover, make an immediate left onto Meadow Lane. Turn left at the sign on Meadow Lane that announces "Overlook Park." Follow this road due east until you get to its end. Park here, and walk straight out. Just before you get to the Rio Grande "Overlook", turn left (north), and walk to the end of a narrow ridge of rock. Climb down to the next level, which is the top rope anchor level. Due north is the sport climbing area, and due east is the more traditional, crack, bolted, and top roping area. The Overlook top ropes are all set with bolts. It is not always obvious that people are below...be careful! Get to the cliff base by following a distinct trail on the south end of the main cliff. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

The Underlook is a tiny cliff that is very close to the well-known Overlook climbing area. It often offers shade when climbers on the main wall of the Overlook are fried by the sun; it seldom sees traffic. The routes are short and not of the highest quality, but Little Miss Polly is definitely worth a visit in the shade. Click here for a route guide.

To get to the "Underlook," turn off NM 4 onto Rover, make an immediate left onto Meadow Lane. Turn at the sign on Meadow Lane that announces "Overlook Park." Follow this road due east until you get to its end. Park here, and walk straight out. Just before you get to the Rio Grande "Overlook", turn left (north), and walk to the end of a narrow ridge of rock. Climb down to the next level, which is the top rope anchor level. Get to the cliff base by following a distinct trail on the south end of the main cliff. Go to the pointed north end of the main cliff, then head northeast and downhill on a smaller trail. After a couple of minutes you should approach the small northwest-facing Underlook. Total approach time about 15 minutes. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

Gallow's Edge features pleasant southern exposure, moderate sport and traditional routes, and fun moderate bouldering. There are sport and traditional routes from 5.4 to 5.9 (with one, out of place 5.12). Boulder problems range from 5.6 to V3. This area is best for leading, rather than top roping, due to rather difficult anchor sets. Click here and here for route guides, and here for a full sized Topo.

The small cliff above the Main Wall at Gallows Edge is called the "Upper Tier". It contains two bolted routes and a decent crack climb. Click here for a route guide.

To get to the "Gallow's Edge" from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover Blvd. After about 200 yards, take a left on Meadow Lane. Park near 719 Meadow Lane, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. "Gallow's Edge" is on the third cliff band below the parking level. Walk almost straight out, but veer left (north) somewhat, and start down the faint trail that leads to the base of the "Old New Place." Take a very faint trail south-east through the talus. When you arrive at the base of the third cliff band you will see several bolted routes. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

Important Safety Reminders and Links

A top rope anchor must be absolutely bombproof! If you have any doubt what-so-ever, add another piece of protection. There is no excuse for a poor top rope anchor. The entire line from the rope to the anchor points must be entirely redundant, equalized, and without a chance for significant extension should an anchor fail. At a minimum, a top rope anchor must have: TWO independent strands of rope or THREE independent pieces of webbing (NO self-equalizing V slings,) TWO bomber anchor points like trees, or a minimum of THREE good and equalized pieces of gear in SOLID rock.
Note: Many of us habitually use the Pinon trees in the area for anchors; please keep in mind that many of these trees are now dead and likely unsafe for anchors.

The Best Local Winter Crags - continued

White Rock Weather Community Bolting Agreement All Route Guides Climbing Fundamentals

The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff with over 40 traditional routes and topropes. This area is White Rock's most popular toproping area. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. In addition, the entire base of the cliff can be traversed as a boulder problem. Many people come here just for the excellent bouldering. Be warned, however, that this bouldering is very dissimilar from what most boulderers would enjoy, and has as much to do with memorizing moves as strength. Toproping is usually fairly easy, bring a rack and long slings to tie off trees. Most toprope sets are on a shelf 10' below the rim. Click here for a route guide. Sport route bolting is not permitted here, by community agreement.

The nearby "Coffee Shop" (aka "Quickstop") is a 35 foot south facing basalt cliff with a handful of decent topropes and trad routes. It is rather short, but entertaining if you get tired of the Playground. Approach as for the Playground, but once there, face towards the river, turn left (north), and walk about 40 yards toward the The Doughnut Shop. You'll see the obvious short cliff at the top of a scree slope. Click here for a route guide to the "Coffee Shop".

To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover Blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow Lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the "Overlook", and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

Potrillo Cliff consists of a 45 foot high, "L" shaped, basalt cliff with about 30 fairly easy traditional and toprope routes between 5.4 to 5.12. This crag is the best crag for beginning climbers in all of White Rock. This crag is sometimes very crowded, partly due to the ease of setting up topropes, especially in the afternoons when it receives direct sunlight until sunset. Click here and here for route guides. Bolting is discouraged.

To get to Potrillo Cliffs from NM state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey South. Follow this for .7 miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant (this hydrant is on the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail south until it splits, and follow the right branch. Continue down this trail until you come upon a "Government Property" sign. Just past this sign veer LEFT onto a less obvious trail. Follow this trail to the cliff's edge. The climbing area is on both sides of a corner formed by the cliff's edges. The descent is at the north end of the main climbing area. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

NOTE: Be very careful to keep adequate distance from the FIRE HYDRANT, mail boxes, driveways, and the edge of the road, when parking. You must keep your tires off the road when you park. If you don't obey these rules, you may get a ticket. The local property owners demand legal enforcement. We are developing a bad reputation with them, which could haunt us for years to come.

The Big Enchilada is a 60 foot, southwest facing, basalt cliff with numerous traditional and toprope routes. Routes are somewhat chossy and many are infrequently climbed. The Big Enchilada also features 2 bolted sport routes. This cliff is in a good location and is fairly tall. Many good routes can be found here, while avoiding the crowds. Many trad leaders practice here. Click here for an East Side route guide, and click here for a South Side route guide. Bolting is permitted here, but is discouraged, due to the lack of good sport climbing potential.

To get to the Big Enchilada from NM state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey South. Follow this for .7 miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant (this hydrant is on the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail south until it splits, and follow the left branch. Follow this trail to its end (a cliff edge). You have arrived! The hike is about 0.75 miles. Top rope sets are available to the right and left of the trail end. Watch for loose rocks on the climbs; particularly near the top. The descent gully is slightly left of the trail end. As you come down the gully, two bolted climbs will be on your left, and the main Big Enchilada area is around the corner to the right. Click here for a detailed street map, showing the location of trailhead and crag.

The nearby "Crack House" (aka Estante Edge) is a 45 foot tall south-facing basalt cliff with 25 traditional and toprope routes. The routes tend to be on the short side, but are extremely high quality. Most follow crack systems, though there are a few face routes worth doing. Bolted routes are not allowed here, as topropes are fairly easy to set on the bench above the cliff, and many of the routes can be led with traditional gear. This area has the largest concentration of hard crack climbs in White Rock. Follow the Big Enchilada access trail south until it splits, and follow the left branch. After passing a sign instructing you not to "disturb rocks", you will be at the canyon rim. Walk left for 25 yards and scramble down the gully. Walk north along the base of the cliffs (past the Big Enchilada's bolted routes) for approximately 250 yards and you are at the "Crack House". DO NOT approach this area from above. It would be necessary to cross private land to do so, which is a no-no. When setting up topropes, use the gully on the far right end of the crag and try to stay on the lower bench area as much as possible. Click here for a route guide.