North American Classic Climbs
Devil's Thumb
East Ridge
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Devil's Thumb East Ridge |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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The TEMSCO helicopter hanger at the Petersburg Airport. |
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MI |
7/18/02 | ||
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Departing in a Hughes 500 helicopter |
MA, MS |
MI |
" | ||
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The Peterson Glacier from the flight in. |
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MI |
" | ||
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Devil's Thumb from the air. Note the 3000' granite slabs that form the base of the massif. |
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MA |
" | ||
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The Thumb from the SW. From left to right are Mt. Burkett (partially in cloud), the Foxhead, Cat's Ear Spire, and Devil's Thumb. Basecamp was at the base of the small serrated ridge on the large snow plateau right of the Thumb. |
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MI |
" | ||
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The helicopter departs the landing zone. |
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MA |
" | ||
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Starting up snow slopes to the base of the East Ridge. |
MA, MS |
MI |
7/19/02 | ||
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Leading the first pitch of the Direct East Ridge on good rock (~5.6) |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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Following the second pitch of the first step. |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Leading the first pitch of the second step. |
MA, MS |
MI |
" | ||
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Following the second pitch of the second step. |
MS, MA |
MI |
" | ||
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On top of the second step, rigging a rappel into the notch between the second step and the main East Ridge. |
MA, MS |
MI |
" | ||
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Rappelling about 100' (30m) off the second step. |
MS, MA |
MI |
" | ||
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Climbing up to the crest of the ridge after the rappel. |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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Only a pitch later, another short diagonalling rappel with directional anchors was used to negotiate the "prominent gendarme" |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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High on the ridge, the group decides to retreat and wait for better weather. |
MI, JJ |
MA |
" | ||
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On the second attempt, the team climbing the SE Face. The top of the second step forms the right side of the prominent, rightmost notch, and the "prominent gendarme" is visible through the clouds above the climbers. |
MA, JJ |
MI |
7/23/02 | ||
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Leading out on the crux pitch. |
MI |
MA |
" | ||
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Higher on the crux pitch, the leader heads for the cleft to his right. |
MI |
MA |
" | ||
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Emerging from the cleft onto the East Ridge. The "prominent gendarme" is directly behind the climber, and the second step is in the distance. |
MS |
MA |
" | ||
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Leading the hardest of four pitches from the "prominent gendarme" up to the rappel notch which is the start of the horizontal portion of the ridge. |
JJ, MI |
MA |
" | ||
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Climbing down into the rappel notch. The summit ridge is vaguely apparent behind the overhanging gendarme. |
MI |
MA |
" | ||
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Further along the ridge. Note the "prominent gendarme" lower in the photo. |
JJ, MS |
MI |
" | ||
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Mark Springer topping out on the Devil's Thumb. Tragically, this was to be his last summit. He was killed in a massive rockslide days later at the base of the mountain while awaiting arrival of the helicopter. |
MS |
MI |
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Fred Beckey's record in the summit register from 1946. |
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MI |
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After four rappels from the notch, on the "Hog's Back" descending to the bergschrund. |
MA, MS, JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Looking across the "hog's back" towards the SW and Petersburg. |
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MI |
" | ||
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Waiting out weather at base camp. |
JJ, MA, MS |
MI |
7/24/02 | ||
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The thumb on a relatively clear day from near base camp. |
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MI |
" |
*Climbers & Photographers: MI: Michael Anderson, MA: Mark Anderson, Janelle Jakulewicz, Mark Springer
