North American Classic Climbs

Mount Edith Cavell

North Face, Regular Route

One of the famous nordwands of the Rockies. This face demands a lot of respect in spite of its relatively moderate rating because of its size and the sad fact that it is so rarely in good condition. During dry years, the rockfall can repel all attempts as normally snow-covered talus areas become exposed. During wet years, wet snow on slick quartzite can give one pause. Warm weather makes the climb dangerous due to snow and rock fall, and cold temperatures are hard on the fingers and toes. This climb is like the story of the 3 bears and their porridge - it has to be "just right" to be feasible for the lucky (or very patient) party who can then enjoy the quality climbing it offers. For these reasons, the route is very rarely done compared to other routes in this collection. Fortunately the classic East ridge (in profile in the banner photo) is available when climbers become frustrated waiting for conditions on the North Face.

Type:

Alpine Mixed

Seriousness:

Location:

Jasper Nat'l Park, Alberta, Canada

References:

G15, I1, I2, I9, W16

Rating:

IV, 5.7, mixed

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

Y. Chouinard, F. Beckey, D. Doody, July 20-21, 1961

Trip Reports:

Baron 8/99
Clark 8/99
Anderson 8/01