North American Classic Climbs
Moose's Tooth
Ham & Eggs Route
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Moose's Tooth Ham & Eggs Route |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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Moose's Tooth from the summit of Mt. Dickey (SW), with important features marked. |
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GC |
Mid-may, '99 | ||
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Moose's Tooth - South face & summit ridge. Main Summit is first peak left of prominent col. Bear Tooth is peak right of prominent col. Ham & Eggs takes the shadowed couloir immediately left of main summit. |
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DH |
early June, '99 | ||
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Ham and Eggs from 7,000' base camp unofficially named the Root Canal. Route follows ice/snow up shadowed couloir to cleft in the summit ridge. Turn right to reach the summit. |
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DH |
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Somewhere around pitch 6 on mixed snow and ice (the lower part was done at night.) |
BG |
DH |
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Looking south from pitch ~8. 7,000' base camp in the Root Canal visible below. Prominent peak in center is Mt. Dickey with Ruth Glacier below. |
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DH |
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Pitch ~10. One of the crux WI4 pitches. Ice quality is suffering from June afternoon sunshine. |
BG |
DH |
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Good alpine ice around pitch 11. |
BG |
DH |
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Looking south from pitch ~12, top of the ice climbing. Only 4 pitches of 50 degree snow remain to the summit ridge cleft. |
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DH |
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Reaching the summit ridge cleft. Looking west towards Denali at extreme right of photo. Also visible is the difficult ridge leading to the SW summit of Moose's Tooth, 1+ miles distant. Main summit is 6 pitches of 40-50 degree snow/ice to the east. |
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DH |
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Beginning the upper west ridge. |
BG |
DH |
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9,700' on the summit ridge. |
BG |
DH |
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9,900' on the summit ridge. One pitch of cornice traversing remaining to the main summit, behind. Denali towers in the distance, with the Ruth Glacier below. Entire traverse to the SW summit of Moose's Tooth visible. Ham and Eggs tops out from the left (south) at the closest low point on the ridge to the camera. |
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DH |
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10,000' on the summit ridge. True summit just beyond visible high point. Watch out for cornices! |
BG |
DH |
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Summit cornice of Moose's Tooth. Pick your high point… |
BG |
DH |
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Returning from the summit. Summit is immediately above climber's head. We belayed the belly crawl to the top. |
BG |
DH |
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Looking down from the summit; most of the West Ridge is visible from the West Summit onward. |
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DH |
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Returning from the summit. Ham and Eggs drops off left in major rock cleft closest to camera. |
BG |
DH |
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Rappelling the crux ice curtain. |
BG |
DH |
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Rappelling back to easier ground. |
BG |
DH |
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Back in base camp in the Root Canal. Huntington visible on the horizon, just right of center |
BG |
DH |
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*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, David Hart, Brad Gessner
