North American Classic Climbs

Mount Moran

South Buttress Direct

Fun pure rock climbing on a big mountain. Routefinding is a challenge on this one, to find the start of the route, stay on it, and to accomplish either of several descent options. Moderate free climbing is interrupted near the top by a pendulum and short aid section (or 5.12) which adds to the adventure. The full South Buttress route goes to the summit, but the upper half is very rarely done these days - a modern bolted rappel descent route takes you to the ground after the lower technical part. Do the canoe approach!

Type:

Alpine Mixed

Seriousness:

Location:

Grand Teton Nat'l Park, Wyoming, USA

References:

G14, I1, W4

Rating:

IV, 5.8A1 to 5.12-; lower ridge alone is grade III

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

First Free Ascent:

R. Emerson, D. Decker, L. Ortenburger, August 30-31, 1953.
S. Mish, H. Gribble, 7/3/79

Trip Reports:

Harney, 7/00
Sofranko 7/00