North American Classic Climbs
Mount Sir Donald
Northwest Arête
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Mount Sir Donald Northwest Arête |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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Mt. Sir Donald from near the defunct Glacier House hotel. |
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GC |
9/10/92 | ||
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Mt. Sir Donald from the highway below Rogers Pass. The route is on the sharp ridge rising from the col. (Uto Peak on the left.) |
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GC |
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Starting up the trail, which follows the Illecillewaet River initially. |
LC |
GC |
8/7/93 | ||
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One of the numerous side streams crossing the trail. |
LC |
GC |
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A waterfall seeming to come straight off the SW face; in reality it originates on the tiny Vaux Glacier at the base of the face. |
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GC |
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The moraine crest from above. |
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GC |
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Settling in to one of the bivouac rings at the Uto-Sir Donald col. |
LC |
GC |
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Looking up the route in late evening. |
LC |
GC |
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Starting the climb - easy scrambling on excellent quartzite. |
GC |
LC |
8/8/93 | ||
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The first roped climbing. |
GC |
LC |
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More of the same. |
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GC |
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Sticking close to the crest. |
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LC |
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More of the same. |
GC |
LC |
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A short detour on the North side. |
LC |
GC |
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The ridge can often be climbed on either side, or directly on the crest. This leader needs to pay attention to his rope. |
GC |
LC |
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A traverse on the North side. The Vaux Glacier can be seen at the base of the SW face. |
LC |
GC |
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Finally on the crest, where the steepness drops dramatically for the final 100m to the summit. |
LC |
GC |
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On the summit, the whole world below. |
GC |
LC |
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Looking down the backbone of the Selkirk Range from the summit to the SE. The impressive expanse of ice is the Illecillewaet Glacier which is a popular ski touring destination in winter. |
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GC |
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Continuing the panorama to the SW from the summit, the Asulkan Ridge prominent in the foreground. |
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GC |
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Beginning the descent. |
GC |
LC |
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A rappel to the South side to get around a steep section of the crest. |
GC |
LC |
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More rappels, this one right on the crest. |
GC |
LC |
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Descending the steep middle section. |
GC |
LC |
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Downclimbing toward the col. The bivouac rings are visible, looking like craters on the moon. |
GC |
LC |
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The mountain at dusk and the Illecillewaet River. |
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GC |
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*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark
