North American Classic Climbs

South Howser Tower

West Buttress (Chouinard/Beckey)

This route up the long West Buttress of one of the most spectacular granite spires on the continent has been called "one the finest free climbs in Canada." Characterized by long dihedrals with perfect hand jams, it offers a fine adventure for the experienced party. The alpine element keeps this from being the routine rock climb suggested by its rating. This is a serious route that is coveted by many but completed by relatively few. Expect to cooperate with others on the route on a good weather day.

Type:

Alpine Rock (with substantial glacier travel on approach & descent)

Seriousness:

Location:

Bugaboo Prov. Park, British Columbia, Canada

References:

G12, I1, I6, I9

Rating:

V, 5.10-

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

F. Beckey, Y. Chouinard, August 8-9, 1961

Trip Reports:

Fee 7/95
Clark 9/98