North American Classic Climbs

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Stairway to Heaven

(Provo Canyon, Utah)

Beta Images Slide Show

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

MA01

MA01

The falls seen from the road in about average conditions. Pitches 1 through 5 are well formed.

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MA

01/26/02

MA02

MA02

Starting up pitch 1.

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MA

03/10/02

MA03

MA03

Pitch 1.

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MA04

MA04

Pitch 2 seen drom the top of pitch 1. There are many possible variations.

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MA05

MA05

Pitch 2.

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MA06

MA06

In the cave on pitch 2, visible above the climber in the previous image.

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MA07

MA07

The long sustained third pitch, seen from the top of pitch 2. The climber is at the belay spot.

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MA08

MA08

Pitch 3, WI4+

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MA09

MA09

Inspecting "Prophet on a Stick", a mixed route leading up over the roof on pitch 4. The normal pitch 4 can be seen in profile to the right.

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MA10

MA10

Pitch 4 in extremely fat conditions. The furthest right pillar is the standard line of ascent and is usually the only pillar.

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MA11

MA11

Pitch 5 seen from the top of pitch 4. Most parties only do the first five pitches, in which case this is the crux at WI5. There are two mixed variations in the cave behind the pillar.

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MA12

MA12

Leading the overhanging crux of pitch 5.

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MA13

MA13

Pitch 6 in lean conditions. The route climbs the short chiney, which is protected by bolts. In good conditions the chimney is filled with ice and is relatively easy (WI4.) Without ice it is M5. The overhanging pitch 7 looms above.

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MA14

MA14

Starting up pitch 6.

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MA15

MA15

Clipping the third of five bolts on pitch 6. Above this point, progress is made via precarious squeeze chimney technique, which with ice gear is a memorable experience.

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MA16

MA16

Pitch 7 rarely forms. When is does, it is a WI6 pillar. In lean conditions such as this, it can be climbed via an 8-bolt M7+ mixed route which weaves between ice patches up to the hanging dagger.

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MA

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MA17

MA17

Starting up pitch 7, about 10 feet up.

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MA18

MA18

At the fourth bolt, preparing to mount the first ice smear.

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MA19

MA19

Reaching for the ice dagger near the top of pitch 7.

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MA20

MA20

A variation to pitch 5. This route (Contrivance, M8) starts from the left side of the cave behind the pillar and climbs up and left to a hanging curtain. There is a bolted M6 route on the right side of the pillar as well.

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MA21

MA21

Gaining the ice on pitch 5, Contrivance.

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*Climbers & Photographers: Michael Anderson, Marc Springer