North American Classic Climbs

Mount Stuart

North Ridge

Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

05S03

05S03

Mt. Stuart's North Side from Colchuck Peak.

-

GC

7/15/73

20M03

20M03

At Goat Pass, looking across the Stuart Glacier to the North Ridge. This is a good place to camp on the long approach from the south. The couloir used to gain the ridge crest can be seen clearly.

-

GC

early June, 1991

20M10

20M10

Climbing on the lower ridge on an unsuccessful attempt; too early in this particular season.

LC

GC

"

20T05

20T05

Beginning the hike from the south in better conditions - note the Larch trees.

LC

GC

early Sept, 1991

20T06

20T06

The south side of Mt. Stuart from the approach hike - the usual descent comes down one of the big gullies toward the right.

-

GC

"

20T11

20T11

Crossing the Stuart Glacier toward the base of the couloir.

GC

LC

"

20T14

20T14

Scrambling toward the top of the couloir - Goat Pass obvious in the background.

LC

GC

"

20T15

20T15

Settling into a bivouac at the mid-ridge notch at the top of the couloir.

LC

GC

"

20T17

20T17

Sunrise over the Central Cascades from the bivouac.

-

GC

"

20T18

20T18

Some scrambling right out of the bivouac.

GC

LC

"

20T19

20T19

Beginning the roped climbing on the ridge.

GC

LC

"

20T20

20T20

Climbing the ridge.

GC

LC

"

20U03

20U03

"

LC

GC

"

20U04

20U04

"

LC

GC

"

20U05

20U05

"

GC

LC

"

20U06

20U06

"

LC

GC

"

20U07

20U07

Half-way along the ridge is a short descent to this easy but aesthetic slab.

GC

LC

"

20U08

20U08

Following the slab pitch.

LC

GC

"

20U09

20U09

Exposure is not lacking on this route.

LC

GC

"

20U11

20U11

Approaching the big gendarme. The regular route avoids this by rappelling to the right onto the shaded face. The direct route climbs the gendarme.

GC

LC

"

20U12

20U12

Rappelling from the base of the great gendarme to continue the easier normal route.

GC

LC

"

20U14

20U14

Scrambling the face.

GC

LC

"

20U17

20U17

Cresting out near the top.

LC

GC

"

20U18

20U18

Hero shot at the summit, looking north.

LC

GC

"

CB01

CB01

The lower North Ridge of Stuart (on the right, taken from an approach from the north to climb the entire ridge.)

-

CB

8/98

CB02

CB02

Climbing on the lower North Ridge.

JG

CB

"

CB03

CB03

Following a long moderate pitch on the lower ridge.

JG

CB

"

CB04

CB04

Leading a dihedral on the big gendarme high on the route, on the direct finish.

CB

JG

"

05Q13

05Q13

A sunset photo of Mt. Stuart.

-

GC

7/73