Spring Snow Climb up Mt. St. Helens

This trip is a mountaineering-style snow climb of historic Mt. St. Helens in Washington State. The St. Helens climb is done in a day, with additional days needed for travel time. The climb is fairly strenuous, at about 10 miles with 5600 ft of elevation gain, but considered non-technical from a mountaineering perspective - crampons and ice axe required, but no crevasse risk or sections requiring roped travel or belay. In early May, conditions are expected to include snow on upper portions, with warming in the afternoon necessitating an early alpine start (possibly as early as 3AM, to be determined by group members based on anticipated pace). Details and route information is below, we will need to monitor snow conditions as the date approaches.

Dates: May 2nd-4th

Logistics: Fly in to Seattle (or Portland) on Saturday May 2nd - possibly explore park and visitor center and meet for group dinner, Climb on Sunday May 3rd, Fly out on May 4th.

Stay at Lone Fir Lodge (or surrounding area) both nights, ~3hr drive from Seattle, we can coordinate rental cars based on group size and times/locations people are flying in. Cost for each person would be for flight (~$500), 2 nights of hotel (~$300), and share of rental car/gas.

Equipment: Mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, layers of clothing appropriate to alpine conditions, glacier glasses/strong sungalsses/goggles, food/water for climb, backpack, etc. Full gear list can be discussed with interested participants.

Required Skills: Participants should have familiarity using mountaineering boots, crampons, and an ice axe for self arrest. Ability to maintain a steady uphill pace for a long day will be necessary.

Permit & Group Size: There is a permit required for the route, last I checked there were 97 of 99 available. They cost ~$25 and are available at recreation.gov. There is also a maximum group size we will need to adhere to. More information on permit can be found at Mount St. Helens Climbing Permit, Gifford Pinchot National Forest - Recreation.gov.

Route: Worm Flows Route (winter route, number 2 on attached photo): ~10 miles, starting in forest at elevation of ~2800ft. Terrain will include some hiking on rock/volcanic debris before gaining the snowfield, where mountaineering skills and equipment will be necessary. Elevation at the summit is ~8300ft. Typical climbing time to summit (one way) is 4-6 hrs. Large cornices form on the crater rim, so it is important to stay far back from the edge to avoid risk of cornice collapse. Route details can be discussed in more detail with anyone who is interested.