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Mt. Baker climb via Coleman-Deming Route

Date: 
Fri, 2026-07-10
Leader: 
Sarah Wright & Erik Alberts
Difficulty: 
Strenuous
Technicality: 
Intermediate
Are dogs allowed?: 
Not allowed

Mt. Baker is widely considered one of the best “first climbs” in North America for anyone interested in glacial mountaineering — and for good reason! With a summit elevation of ~10,780 ft above sea level, the route feels like a true big-mountain experience while being accessible to motivated mountaineers early in their journey. Over two days, we’ll gain about 8,000 ft, practice real mountaineering skills, and take in some of the most spectacular views in the Cascades! Heliotrope Ridge trail as the approach and camp is stunning on its own (see attached pictures we took on a "scouting" trip last year) - anyone who does not wish to summit has the option to remain at camp and explore the area. On a clear day, the summit team will be rewarded with views of the entire Cascade Range. Should be a great experience!

Dates: July 10th - 12th, travel on July 9th may be necessary depending on airline/flight - there is one direct flight from ABQ to SEA the morning of the 10th on Alaska airlines that lands at 8:10AM.

Logistics: Group will leave Seattle by 9AM to drive (~3 hrs) to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead where we will hike to camp, prepare dinner and review additional glacial climbing techniques. From camp, those who wish to attempt the summit will get an alpine start the morning of July 11th and ascend the Coleman-Deming route, climbing and traversing glacial terrain. We will decend via the same route, and after a break at camp, pack out to cars, possibly staying in a hotel for one night. We will drive back to Seattle on Sunday July 12th for flights home.

Cost for each person would be for flight (~$500), 1 night of hotel (~$200), and share of rental car/gas.

Equipment: General mountaineering gear and backpacking supplies - i.e. mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, layers of clothing appropriate to alpine conditions, glacier glasses/goggles, food/water for climb, backpack, sleeping bag, pad, tent etc. More complete gear list is in attachments and any questions can be discussed with interested participants. Note that some gear may be condition dependent. Team gear such as ropes, stoves, and possibly tents may be shared - group can coordinate this prior to trip.

Required Skills: Participants who want to climb should have familiarity using mountaineering boots, crampons, and an ice axe for self arrest. Roped glacier travel will be necessary so familiarity with team arrest and crevasse rescue is also necessary. Ability to maintain a steady uphill pace for a long day is required. Group will meet prior to trip to align on methods/technique for team skills and review/practice as rope team. Contact trip leads for any questions on skill level required, there will be some opportunity for review.

Route: The Coleman-Deming route is the original and most popular route on Mt. Baker. From Heliotrope Ridge, we will hike ~3 miles and gain ~2800 ft of elevation on maintained trails. We will likely camp at about ~6000 ft above sea level, just below the glacier, but group will discuss this in advance. From camp, the route ascends up the glacier to a saddle. Continuing up a ridge, we will then reach the Roman Wall, the steepest part of the climb at 35-40 degrees for a short interval, before reaching the summit dome. Time to summit is ~6hrs. We will descend via the same route. Route is an alpine grade 2 and is labeled as 1 on the attached picture.

Please let trip leads know if interested as soon as possible, ideally by June 2nd, as we will be out of contact for 3 weeks in June. Expect a delayed response after June 2nd.

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